North Eolus is the short spur summit across a saddle from Mount Eolus in Chicago Basin, ranked as its own fourteener at 14,039 feet despite the brief traverse. It is a 15-minute Class 3 scramble from the Eolus saddle and is nearly always climbed as the warm-up before the Catwalk.
Standard Route
Follow the Mount Eolus route from Chicago Basin to Twin Lakes and up the ramps and ledges to the Eolus-North Eolus saddle at about 13,850 feet. Turn north and scramble about 200 feet of Class 3 slabs and blocks to the summit. Return to the saddle to continue to Eolus by way of the Catwalk, or descend the ramps to Twin Lakes. The peak adds about half a mile and 200 feet to the Eolus day.
What to Expect
The slabs are solid and the moves are easy, with mild exposure. Most people climb North Eolus first to test conditions and nerves before committing to the Catwalk, and the view of the Catwalk and Eolus's east face from its summit is the best preview of what is coming. In poor weather North Eolus alone is a reasonable consolation summit with a quick retreat to the lakes.
Access & Logistics
Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to Needleton, then 6 miles to Chicago Basin; or the Purgatory trailhead walk-in, about 16 miles one way. Train tickets for backpackers sell out early. No permit; Weminuche Wilderness rules apply.
When to Climb
Mid-July through mid-September, same as Eolus. The ramps to the saddle hold snow into July. Monsoon storms build by noon in July and August, and the saddle is two hours from camp; start at dawn.
Camping, Permits, and Nearby
Camp in Chicago Basin below the Twin Lakes junction, 100 feet from water, no fires, food secured from the goats. Plan three nights for the three peaks. Durango has the train and the services; the Chicago Basin guide on this site covers the logistics.
Gear Notes
Helmet, sticky-soled boots, poles for the approach, a filter, and microspikes before August.
Related Reading
Often Climbed With
Mount Eolus →
14,083 ft · Class 3 · 17 mi standard route
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