Wilson Peak

From the Rock of Ages trailhead at about 10,300 feet, the trail climbs through the Silver Pick drainage, skirts the private claims on a rerouted section, and switchbacks up to the Rock of Ages saddle at 13,000 feet. From the saddle, a traverse across the west face on a good trail leads to Wilson's southwest ridge. The ridge climbs on Class 3 rock to a false summit, drops into a short, exposed notch, and finishes with a Class 3 pitch to the true summit at 14,017 feet. Total: about 10 miles round trip and 4,000 feet of gain.

The rock above the saddle is loose and the final pitch has real exposure; climb it with a helmet and test everything. The notch below the true summit turns some people around, and downclimbing it on the return is the crux for most. Stay on the rerouted trail through Silver Pick Basin; the old route crosses private property and the owners have prosecuted trespassers. The view from the top takes in Mount Wilson and El Diente to the south and Lizard Head to the east.

From Colorado 145 between Telluride and Placerville, turn south at Big Bear Creek onto Silver Pick Road (Forest Road 622) and drive about 8 miles to the Rock of Ages trailhead. The road is rough in its upper miles; high-clearance vehicles are recommended, and careful drivers in passenger cars often make it when dry. No fee or permit.

Mid-July through September for dry rock. The west face traverse holds snow into July and is a poor place for a slip. Storms build over the Wilsons by early afternoon in July and August; be off the summit ridge by noon. In September the aspen along Silver Pick Road turn gold and the weather steadies.

Dispersed camping is allowed at and below the trailhead. Telluride, 45 minutes away, has every service and every price. The Navajo Lake side of the massif serves Mount Wilson and El Diente; parties doing all three peaks usually camp at Navajo Lake for two and drive around to Rock of Ages for Wilson Peak.