El Diente Peak

From the Navajo Lake trailhead, hike about 5 miles to Navajo Lake at 11,154 feet and continue into the upper basin. The North Slopes route climbs a gully of loose rock and, early in the season, snow from the basin floor to the summit ridge just east of the top, then follows the ridge west on Class 3 ledges to the summit at 14,164 feet. Total: about 12 miles round trip and 4,900 feet of gain from the trailhead. The South Slopes route from the Kilpacker trailhead is the alternative, longer on the approach and similar in difficulty.

The rock is the worst part: the north gully is a chute of loose blocks, and parties above send them down. Helmets, an early start, and staying out from under other climbers are the rules. The ridge near the summit has short, exposed Class 3 steps and a few spots where the route drops onto the north side. The traverse to Mount Wilson is Class 4 and long; most people climb the two peaks on separate days from the same camp.

Dunton Road (Forest Road 535) from Colorado 145 reaches the Navajo Lake trailhead in about 7 gravel miles, passable by passenger cars when dry. The Kilpacker trailhead is a few miles farther along the same road. No fee or permit.

The north gully holds snow into late July and is a snow climb before then. Late July through September is the season for dry rock, with the usual monsoon pattern: storms by early afternoon in July and August. September is the best month.

Navajo Lake is the base camp, with Lizard Head Wilderness rules on distance from water and fires. From Kilpacker the route can be done as a long day, about 14 miles. Telluride is an hour away; Rico and Dolores are the closer supply stops. Wilson Peak, the third summit of the group, starts from the Rock of Ages trailhead on the Telluride side.