Mount Eolus

From Chicago Basin at about 11,000 feet, take the trail north to Twin Lakes at 12,500 feet. From the lakes, head west and climb a series of ramps and ledges, cairned and Class 2+, to the saddle between Eolus and North Eolus at about 13,850 feet. Turn south onto the Catwalk, a narrow Class 3 ridge about 100 yards long, then follow ledges up the east face of Eolus, staying on the line of cairns, to the summit at 14,083 feet. From the Needleton train stop the round trip is about 17 miles with 5,800 feet of gain, spread over a multi-day trip.

The Catwalk is walkable and the exposure is severe; it is not a place for anyone unsteady at height. The east face ledges are Class 3 with loose rock and a lot of route-finding among cairns, and parties get off route onto harder ground when they hurry. Climb it dry. The descent of the ledges is slower than the ascent. North Eolus is a 15-minute Class 3 scramble from the saddle and is usually done first.

Most parties ride the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to the Needleton flag stop at 8,200 feet and hike 6 miles up Needle Creek to the basin; backpacker tickets sell out months ahead. The alternative is walking in from the Purgatory trailhead on US 550, about 16 miles one way. No permit is needed, but Weminuche Wilderness rules apply, and camping is prohibited in the Twin Lakes basin above the trail junction.

The train's backpacker service runs from late spring into fall, and the routes are in condition from mid-July through mid-September. Snow lingers on the Eolus ledges into July. The monsoon is fierce here: storms by noon most days in July and August, and the summits are two hours from camp. Start climbing at first light.

Camp in Chicago Basin below the Twin Lakes junction, 100 feet from water, no fires. The basin's mountain goats are habituated and come to camp for salt; urinate on rocks away from tents and hang or seal food. Plan three nights to climb all three peaks with a weather day. Durango, where the train starts, has every service; Silverton, at the other end of the line, is the smaller option. The Chicago Basin guide on this site covers the train logistics.