Windom Peak is the friendliest of the three Chicago Basin fourteeners, a Class 2+ boulder scramble up a west ridge from Twin Lakes, and the peak most people climb first after the train ride and the hike to camp. The remoteness, not the route, is the challenge.
Standard Route
From Chicago Basin at about 11,000 feet, take the trail north to Twin Lakes at 12,500 feet. From the lakes, head east and climb to the saddle between Windom and Peak Eighteen, then follow Windom's west ridge up large, stable boulders with a few short Class 2+ steps to the summit at 14,093 feet. From Needleton the round trip is about 17 miles with 5,800 feet of gain across a multi-day trip; from camp, Windom alone is roughly 6 miles and 3,000 feet.
What to Expect
The boulders are big and solid and the ridge is wide, so the climbing is fun rather than frightening. The summit view over the Needle Mountains to Sunlight's spire is one of the best in the range. Windom and Sunlight share the approach to the saddle and are often climbed together in a long day, Windom first because it is easier and the weather is better in the morning.
Access & Logistics
Ride the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad to the Needleton flag stop and hike 6 miles up Needle Creek, or walk in from the Purgatory trailhead on US 550, about 16 miles one way. Backpacker train tickets sell out months ahead in summer. No permit; Weminuche Wilderness rules apply, and camping is prohibited above the Twin Lakes trail junction.
When to Climb
Mid-July through mid-September, with the train running from late spring into fall. The west ridge sheds snow by early July. The monsoon brings storms by noon in July and August; Windom's ridge is quick to descend, which is another reason to do it first.
Camping, Permits, and Nearby
Camp in Chicago Basin below the Twin Lakes junction, 100 feet from water, no fires. Chicago Basin's mountain goats are aggressive about salt; pee on rocks away from camp and keep gear sealed. Three nights covers all three peaks with a weather day. Durango is the base with every service; the Chicago Basin guide on this site has the train schedule and the walk-in details.
Gear Notes
Helmet for the boulders, boots, poles for the approach, a filter, and microspikes before mid-July.
Related Reading
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