North Maroon Peak

From Maroon Lake, take the Maroon-Snowmass trail toward Buckskin Pass past Crater Lake, then leave the trail near the creek crossing below Minnehaha Gulch. Cross the rock glacier and climb into the first gully on the north face, a broad ramp of ledges and loose rock, Class 3. Traverse right into the second gully, steeper, and climb it to the northeast ridge. Follow the ridge over a series of rock bands, including a 20-foot Class 4 chimney, to the summit. Total: about 9.25 miles round trip, 4,500 feet of gain, and 10 to 12 hours from Maroon Lake.

The gullies funnel rockfall from anyone above, and the ledges between them are loose and exposed. The chimney is short but must be downclimbed on the return, which is where most parties slow down. Cairns mark the route but also mark wrong turns left by lost parties; a GPS track from a trusted source matters. The traverse to Maroon Peak is Class 5 and one of the four great fourteener traverses, not a link-up for a Class 4 party.

Maroon Creek Road reservations apply from mid-May through October: a shuttle seat from Aspen Highlands or a pre-8 AM parking permit, both booked ahead at visitmaroonbells.com. Overnight camping at Crater Lake requires a separate permit from Recreation.gov.

Late July through mid-September for dry rock; the north-facing gullies hold snow and ice longer than Maroon Peak's south ridge. Afternoon storms are near daily in July and August, and there is no fast way off the ridge. Leave Crater Lake by 4 AM.

Camp at Crater Lake with a permit to cut the approach, or take the first shuttle from Aspen Highlands for a long day. Aspen has every service. Pyramid Peak across the valley is the third of the Elk Range's Class 4 trio, and Castle Peak, up Castle Creek Road, is the range's one moderate fourteener for a recovery day. The Maroon Bells visitor guide on this site covers reservations.