Longs Peak is the most technical of the popular 14er trade routes. The Keyhole Route is a 15-mile, 5,100-foot, class 3 scramble with significant exposure, and the mountain has claimed over 70 lives. It's a serious objective that demands experience, weather windows, and a willingness to turn back.
Standard Route
The Keyhole Route starts at the Longs Peak Trailhead in Rocky Mountain National Park (9,400 feet). The trail passes Goblins Forest, Mills Moraine, and Boulder Field before reaching the Keyhole at 13,150 feet. From the Keyhole, the route follows the Ledges, Trough, Narrows, and Homestretch — all class 3 with serious exposure.
What to Expect
The technical sections above the Keyhole are only safe in dry conditions, typically mid-July through mid-September. Climbers usually start at 2-3 AM to be off the technical sections before afternoon storms. If the route is wet or icy, turn around — the Trough has killed multiple climbers in slippery conditions.
Access & Logistics
Inside Rocky Mountain National Park; entrance fee required. The trailhead has limited parking and fills by 1 AM on summer weekends. Camp at Goblins Forest or Boulder Field with a backcountry permit for a two-day climb.
Related Reading
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