Wetterhorn Peak

From the Matterhorn Creek trailhead at 10,400 feet, the trail climbs about 2 miles through forest and meadow into the Uncompahgre Wilderness and up to a saddle below the peak's southeast ridge. Follow the ridge trail up talus toward the summit block. Near 13,900 feet the route passes the Ship's Prow, a rock fin, and descends a few feet into a notch on the ridge, then climbs the final Class 3 pitch, about 150 feet of solid rock with good holds and serious exposure, to the summit at 14,015 feet. Total: about 7 miles round trip and 3,300 feet of gain.

Everything below the Prow is walking on trail and talus. The last pitch is harder than the photos suggest and has enough exposure that some people stop at the notch; make sure you are comfortable downclimbing it, because that is the way home. The rock is better than most in the range. Matterhorn Peak, a 13er across the basin, is an easy Class 2 addition for a two-summit day.

From Lake City, drive the Henson Creek road toward Engineer Pass about 9 miles, turn right on North Henson Road, and continue 2 miles to the lower Matterhorn Creek trailhead; passenger cars manage it when dry. High-clearance vehicles can drive 0.7 mile farther to the upper trailhead. No fee or permit.

The ridge is usually dry by early July and stays in condition through September. The final pitch is a bad place in rain, and the San Juan monsoon delivers rain by early afternoon most days in July and August. Because the route is short, a dawn start puts you on the summit by 9 and back at the car before the weather.

Dispersed camping is allowed along Henson Creek and at the trailhead. Lake City, 30 minutes away, has groceries, gas, lodging, and a summer crowd of Alpine Loop drivers. Uncompahgre Peak starts from Nellie Creek off the same road and pairs with Wetterhorn over a weekend; Handies, Redcloud, and Sunshine are on the Cinnamon Pass side of town.