Crestone Peak (South Face)

Crestone Peak is the highest of the Crestones at 14,294 feet, and its South Face route up the Red Gully is a long Class 3 climb on the best rock in the Sangre de Cristo, from a camp at South Colony Lakes below Westcliffe. The trail version here counts the whole day from the upper 4WD lot: about 13 miles and 5,800 feet of cumulative gain, over Broken Hand Pass twice. Nearly everyone splits it with a night at the lakes.

From the upper 4WD lot, walk the closed road about 2.5 miles to the wilderness boundary and the South Colony Lakes basin. Take the trail toward Broken Hand Pass, a Class 2+ climb with loose rock near the top, to the pass at 12,950 feet, then descend the far side about 700 feet to Cottonwood Lake. Contour northwest under the south face to the base of the Red Gully, the obvious reddish couloir.

Climb the gully about 1,500 feet on Class 3 conglomerate, staying on the knobby rock rather than the loose center, to the notch between the summits. Turn left for the true summit. Return down the gully, over Broken Hand Pass, and down to the lakes; the pass re-climb comes at the end of the day. The traverse to Crestone Needle along the connecting ridge is Class 5 and not a shortcut.

From Westcliffe, take Colorado 69 south 4.5 miles, turn right on Colfax Lane and follow it 5.5 miles to its end, then continue on the South Colony Road. Passenger cars reach the lower 2WD lot at about 8,800 feet; high-clearance 4WD vehicles continue 2.5 rough miles to the upper lot at 9,900 feet, which is where the listed distance starts. The road above the upper lot has been closed to vehicles since 2009. No fee or permit for day use or camping; register at the trailhead box.

No dogs on this one; the Red Gully and Broken Hand Pass are no place for them. Not a kid climb. Helmet without exception, since the gully funnels rockfall from parties above, and sticky-soled shoes for the conglomerate. Carry three liters and a filter; Cottonwood Lake is the last water on the far side of the pass. Camp at the designated sites below the lower South Colony Lake, 300 feet from the water, no fires. Westcliffe, an hour from the upper lot, has the grocery and lodging. The Crestone Peak and Needle guide covers the climb in detail, and the Crestone Peak page has the planning.